On the outer ring of the metro, in Brazoria County, a house in Danbury with a detached garage or a carport puts a longer walk between the truck and the kitchen door.
Choosing between the stones
The first choice is natural or engineered. Granite, quartzite and marble are cut from the earth, so every slab is different and you pick the actual slab we cut. Quartz and porcelain are made to a pattern, so a sample shows you what the whole slab looks like. After that, the choice comes down to heat, care and look.
Granite is the working stone. It takes normal pan heat and resists scratches, and it needs a penetrating sealer. Quartzite looks closer to marble and is harder than granite, with the same need for sealer. Quartz asks for no sealer at all and stays clean with soap and water, but it wants a trivet under a hot pot, and it never goes outside, because sunlight yellows its resin.
Marble etches from acids and scratches more easily than the others, and it needs resealing over the years. People who choose it for a kitchen choose the patina too. Porcelain is thin, often 12 mm, and it resists heat, sun and stains. Its printed face can stop at the edge, so a mitered edge is the common fix, and it needs a solid, level base underneath.
Caring for the stone
Daily care is warm water and a mild soap. Skip bleach, vinegar and harsh solvents, which wear on sealer and dull quartz resin. Wipe oil, wine and coffee before they sit. To test the sealer on granite or quartzite, put a few drops of water on the stone: if it darkens, it is time to reseal. Lighter granites want sealer about once a year, dense dark stones less often. Marble etches from acids, so wipe lemon and wine quickly. Hard tap water leaves spots on dark polished stone, and a dry cloth after the dishes keeps them away.
From estimate to install
You will see us three times. The first visit is the free estimate. We measure enough to price the job, check the cabinets for level, look at the sink and the cooktop and bring samples, so you can see each stone in your own light. The written price lists the stone, the edges, the cutouts, tear-out and the sink install line by line.
The second visit is the template. It happens once the cabinets are set and level. Our templater records the room digitally, which catches walls that are out of square, and settles the seam placement and the overhangs with you. Nothing is cut before that. In our shop, the slab is then cut to the template, with the sink and cooktop openings cut and the edges polished.
The third visit is the install. The crew removes the old tops and takes them away, sets the stone on the cabinets, fills the seams with epoxy tinted to the stone and sets the sink. Faucet holes are drilled on site at install, where the faucet will sit. Natural stone gets sealer, and the crew cleans up before it leaves.
Planning the template visit
The drive to a house well outside Houston takes time, so it helps to have everything the template depends on ready before that visit: the cabinets set and level and the counters cleared. The install brings the finished tops, the epoxy and the sealer on the same truck.
Countertop repair
Not every worn top has to come out. We fill chips at edges and sink rims, rework seams that have opened, re-polish dull spots and re-seal stone whose sealer has worn thin. A loose undermount sink can be re-attached. Some damage cannot be made to disappear, and a chip in porcelain is hard to repair. The quickest way to begin is to describe the damage in the estimate form.
Where we work and how to start
Close to Danbury, we also work in Angleton, Rosharon and Alvin.
For a free in-home estimate in Danbury, fill in the form below or call. A few photos of the counters help us come prepared.