In the middle ring of the metro, in Harris County, a house in Seabrook may be raised off the ground, which puts a flight of stairs on the carry path for the finished tops.
Choosing between the stones
The first choice is natural or engineered. Granite, quartzite and marble are cut from the earth, so every slab is different and you pick the actual slab we cut. Quartz and porcelain are made to a pattern, so a sample shows you what the whole slab looks like. After that, the choice comes down to heat, care and look.
Granite is the working stone. It takes normal pan heat and resists scratches, and it needs a penetrating sealer. Quartzite looks closer to marble and is harder than granite, with the same need for sealer. Quartz asks for no sealer at all and stays clean with soap and water, but it wants a trivet under a hot pot, and it never goes outside, because sunlight yellows its resin.
Marble etches from acids and scratches more easily than the others, and it needs resealing over the years. People who choose it for a kitchen choose the patina too. Porcelain is thin, often 12 mm, and it resists heat, sun and stains. Its printed face can stop at the edge, so a mitered edge is the common fix, and it needs a solid, level base underneath.
Picking the slab
Natural stone is picked in person, at any stone yard, and you send us a photo of the slab tag so the slab can be confirmed at template. Stand back first to see how the pattern moves across the whole slab, then look close at the area where the sink will go. Bring a cabinet door or a photo of the floor, since yard lighting flattens color. Yards sell granite by level, and the level reflects rarity and yield, not strength. Quartz and porcelain are chosen from samples, and every slab of a pattern matches its sample. Whatever you choose, we lay the template out on that slab so the strongest part of the pattern lands where you look most.
From estimate to install
You will see us three times. The first visit is the free estimate. We measure enough to price the job, check the cabinets for level, look at the sink and the cooktop and bring samples, so you can see each stone in your own light. The written price lists the stone, the edges, the cutouts, tear-out and the sink install line by line.
The second visit is the template. It happens once the cabinets are set and level. Our templater records the room digitally, which catches walls that are out of square, and settles the seam placement and the overhangs with you. Nothing is cut before that. In our shop, the slab is then cut to the template, with the sink and cooktop openings cut and the edges polished.
The third visit is the install. The crew removes the old tops and takes them away, sets the stone on the cabinets, fills the seams with epoxy tinted to the stone and sets the sink. Faucet holes are drilled on site at install, where the faucet will sit. Natural stone gets sealer, and the crew cleans up before it leaves.
Humidity, water and the coast
Humidity does not hurt stone, but it works on what sits under it: the cabinet boxes and the subtops. Near the water, we look at both before we template. If a house has been through a flood remodel, we template after the new cabinets are set, not before. Outdoor counters near the coast take salt air, full sun and storm-season rain, so they get granite, quartzite or porcelain, never quartz.
Countertop repair
Not every worn top has to come out. We fill chips at edges and sink rims, rework seams that have opened, re-polish dull spots and re-seal stone whose sealer has worn thin. A loose undermount sink can be re-attached. Some damage cannot be made to disappear, and a chip in porcelain is hard to repair. The quickest way to begin is to describe the damage in the estimate form.
Where we work and how to start
Beyond Seabrook, our crew works across the rest of Greater Houston, including El Lago, Kemah and Taylor Lake Village.
To book a free estimate in Seabrook, send the form below or call us. Tell us which rooms, which stone you like and your street, and add photos if you have them.